After years of dominance by the Samba and a recent push behind the Superstar, Adidas chief executive officer Bjørn Gulden says the Stan Smith is ready for its next act. Speaking on the company's second-quarter 2026 earnings call on Thursday, Gulden told analysts that the classic tennis sneaker is expected to “start to grow again” as tennis-inspired fashion makes its way back into the mainstream.

According to Gulden, a wave of new Stan Smith editions is planned, along with multiple collaborations and marketing activations. “We have big indications from fashion shows, from consumer groups, from research, that this direction is coming,” he said. “And the initial sales of the product that we have in is also working very well.”

Fashion Week Signals

The Stan Smith was everywhere during the men's shows at Paris Fashion Week in June. Designer Willy Chavarria, a frequent Adidas collaborator, teased two colorways of a forthcoming Stan Smith capsule during his spring/summer 2027 show. One version, worn by Chavarria himself, featured a white upper with a green hairy suede heel tab and green rose detailing on the side. Tennis legend Stan Smith was also in attendance, wearing a textured green suede colorway.

Meanwhile, at Y-3's spring/summer 2027 Paris show, the footwear lineup included several reimagined takes on the Stan Smith. The new Y-3 Stan Smith SQ silhouette subverts the shoe's timeless design with a more formal shape, highlighted by a square toe and a visible heel. Another new version, the sleek Y-3 Stan Smith Lo Pro, offered a lower-profile alternative.

Adidas also took over a multi-floor Parisian home for a two-day residency dedicated to the Stan Smith during men's fashion week. The event explored the shoe's cultural influence through the eyes of a group of artists and musicians.

A Global Trajectory

Gulden explained that when the Stan Smith takes off, as it has in previous cycles, it “actually goes global” but is usually driven first by European consumers. “Then it goes to Asia and then less of course to a certain target group in the U.S.,” the CEO noted. However, he added that higher-end demand in the United States has recently been strong, with triple white colorways performing particularly well. “The triple white look is definitely coming back globally, which is what we like with these kind of franchises.”

To prepare for a resurgence, Adidas consciously reduced the amount of Stan Smith stock in the market in order to prevent discounting. Gulden said on the call, “I feel that we have done the work in parallel with what we have done on all the other launches.” That careful management is intended to position the franchise for healthy sell-through as new product arrives.

History of an Icon

The Stan Smith launched in 1972 as the first leather tennis shoe on the market. During development, it was originally named after French tennis player Robert Haillet, but Adidas rechristened it after Haillet retired, choosing then-tennis pro Stan Smith as the new face. In 1973, the first shoes carrying Smith's name were released. For the next five years, though, the shoe was officially known as the “Stan Smith – Haillet,” with both players' names on the tongue alongside Smith's iconic portrait.

The sneaker has cycled through several major surges in popularity. In 2001, rapper Jay-Z referenced the Stan Smith in a song on his album “The Blueprint.” A bigger comeback came around 2014, when the shoe became a staple of millennial hipster style and appeared on the feet of fashion insiders, celebrities, and street style stars alike. A string of high-profile collaborations helped cement its status, leading to the style being named Shoe of the Year at the FN Achievement Awards in 2014.

Financial Context

Gulden's optimistic outlook arrived as Adidas reported a 14 percent increase in sales for the second quarter. Between April and June, the company booked 6.74 billion euros in net sales, its highest quarterly figure ever, and ahead of market expectations of 6.63 billion euros. The results were boosted by recent World Cup activity, which generated a windfall for the sportswear giant.

However, Adidas shares fell 11.5 percent to 161.25 euros on Thursday following the earnings release, and continued sliding on Friday to 159.40 euros, down nearly 2 percent. Analysts from Deutsche Bank, Bernstein Research, and the Royal Bank of Canada suggested that the market was spooked by higher-than-expected marketing expenditures. Adidas spent an additional 212 million euros on World Cup promotions, which contributed to a lower-than-expected operating profit for the quarter.

For Gulden, the investment is part of a broader strategy to build long-term momentum across core franchises. The Stan Smith, with its deep heritage and proven ability to resonate across generations, is once again positioned as a key growth driver. The combination of fashion-forward collaborations, a classic aesthetic, and a disciplined approach to inventory could help the silhouette reclaim its place at the center of sneaker culture.

With signs that tennis-inspired dressing is returning to runways and street style alike, the stage appears set for the Stan Smith's latest revival. As the brand prepares to roll out numerous versions and partnerships, the coming seasons will determine whether Gulden's confidence translates into sustained global demand.

Source: MSN News